Oct 5, 2009

Credit and Charge-offs: Three Possible Solutions to Increase Your Credit

A charge-off occurs when you are so far past due on payments that your creditor feels that they will not receive any payment. A charge-off means that the creditor has written off the account as a bad debt, but it does not relieve you of the obligation to pay the debt. Charge-offs have a severe negative impact on your credit, but once the account has been closed, you may find it difficult to get it reopened in order to continue making payments. However, there are some options when it comes to getting rid of charge-offs on your credit report, provided you have the means to pay at least a portion of the debt.

Your first and likely best option is to write your creditor and request a pay-for-deletion arrangement. In the letter, offer to pay a percentage of what you owe provided that the creditor agrees to remove the charge-off from your credit report. If the debt is fairly recent, you may need to offer the full amount as payment in order to get the creditor to agree. Not all creditors will agree to this type of arrangement, but if they do, be certain you have the pay-for-deletion agreement in writing before you send in your payment. You will have to use certified funds in this type of an arrangement, so be prepared take the extra step of purchasing a money order or cashier’s check. This option works best, because the derogatory credit history will be gone from your report as if it never existed.

Your second option is to arrange for the debt to be listed as ‘Paid in Full’ on the credit report, in exchange for payment. Just as with a pay-for-deletion agreement, you must be certain to get this in writing, especially if you work out a payment arrangement that is less than what you owe. The ‘Paid in Full’ listing will improve your credit score, but not as much as having the derogatory information removed entirely. What you do not want is a listing of ‘Settled’ on the account, as it indicates to other creditors that you do not fully meet your credit obligations.

Your last option, if you cannot work with your creditors in any other way, is to pay off the debt in full, with appropriate account numbers, reference numbers and any other necessary information included with the payment. Make copies of everything, and once the payment clears, you can dispute the listing on the credit report to have it updated as ‘Paid in Full’. Keep in mind that you must provide proof that the debt was entirely satisfied in order for this method to work, so you won’t be able to make a payment that is less than the full amount owed if you want this to be successful.

One final note: charge-offs remain on your credit report for up to 7 years. If the date for the charge-off to be removed from your credit report is close, you may wish to wait for it to be removed from your credit report entirely. This is true whether or not you ultimately decide to repay the debt, because repaying older debts can cause your credit scores to drop temporarily.

Getting your credit repaired can take some time if you have several charge-offs. Be patient, wait for the written agreement, and make the payments in certified funds in order to obtain the best results.

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Sep 20, 2009

College Students and Credit – Staying Credit-wise

In the past, college students could expect a slew of credit card offers along with the typical college entrance paperwork. Touting themselves as a way for students to learn responsible spending habits, most credit cards targeting college students instead left these young consumers saddled with cards that charged high interest rates, excessive over-limit fees, and teaser rates that quickly increased with the first missed payment. Under the new laws set to take effect on February 2010, credit card companies won’t be able to extend credit to students without proof of income to repay the balances, or a parental cosigner – but be aware, if you cosign on your son or daughter’s account, it will definitely have an affect your credit scores as well.

When you cosign an account, whether it’s a loan, credit card, or an open line of credit, that account shows up on your credit report as well as the credit report of the individual you cosigned with so that he or she could qualify for the credit. This means that if payments are not made on time, both individuals’ credit scores will suffer. Additionally, the student credit card that you cosigned for will be added to your current available-credit-to-debt ratios and you could be denied additional credit based on the payment and purchasing activity on that card. Keep the initial credit limit low, and make sure any credit limit increases are only granted with your consent – this will help you to effectively manage both your credit scores, and your child’s credit scores.

Credit card companies probably won’t stop their aggressive marketing to students, and you can expect that the new laws will only encourage some credit card companies to offer additional incentives for new students to get their parents’ agreement to sign up for the card. If you have a student who is currently in college, or that is approaching college age, now is the time to help explain to them how credit cards work – keeping balances low, making payments on time, and paying off more than the minimum balance each month can actually improve your child’s credit, and yours as well if managed carefully.

If your student will be attending college out of state, it can be difficult to keep track of credit card activity. One way is to sign up for email alerts on purchases, or when the card is approaching its limit. Be aware of how much your child spends while in school, and help him or her to create a budget that will successfully track spending and reduce the risk of over-limit fees. Even better: opt out of any over-limit fees on the new card, and avoid getting hit with extra charges if your student does max out the card.

It’s never too soon to learn the lessons of responsible credit use; just be certain that your college student’s spending habits don’t end up costing you your good credit. Stay informed when it comes to purchases, encourage responsible spending habits, and don’t be afraid to take the credit card away or cancel the account if your child proves that he or she is not ready for the responsibility – it’s better to cancel a card with a small limit early on than it is to pay thousands in fees and late charges down the line.

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Jul 31, 2009

Hidden Credit Builders: Adding Positive Information to Your Report

Most people focus on removing negative items from their credit reports in order to improve credit scores. While this is an effective means of improving scores by clearing up items that cause credit scores to drop, it is also sometimes possible to improve your credit by adding to your credit report. Just as negative information can be inaccurately reported, positive information may also have been left off, or misreported on your credit report. In some instances, it may be possible to add this positive information and give your credit scores a natural boost.

Some common mistakes with regards to positive information on your credit report include the length of time the account has been open, the credit limit on the account, and any accounts where you may be a joint account holder but the account isn’t listed on your credit report. When it comes to these types of mistakes, adding the positive information to your credit report can usually be accomplished one of two ways:

Contact the creditor. If it’s a case of not having a joint account listed on your credit report, you’ll want to contact the creditor directly. In many instances, your creditor will be able to add the account to your report for you. This is especially true if the account is listed for the other joint account holder already.

Contact the credit bureaus. After you’ve contacted your creditor, you’ll want to confirm that the information has been changed within the credit bureaus. Wait a couple of weeks, and then check your report – if you still see errors, send a letter to the credit bureau asking them to correct the information, or use the online contact form.

For accounts that are in your own name, but that aren’t listed on your credit report, you should verify with your creditor that they report to the three national credit bureaus. Not every creditor chooses to report to the bureaus, and without their voluntary reporting, the credit bureau won’t be able to help you. If you do confirm that the creditor typically reports and just hasn’t reported your account, you can take the same steps above in order to have the situation resolved.

For creditors that do not choose to report your credit to the agencies, you can still help your chances of obtaining credit if you can get a certified copy of your payment history. If possible, request a copy of the payment history on company letterhead, and signed by a manager or someone else in charge. By having this documentation on hand to bolster your credit report, you may be able to convince some lenders.

Adding positive information can be a helpful step when it comes to repairing your own credit. Listing accurate, positive information can counteract some negative marks on your report. Additionally, by verifying these positive items, you will can be more vigilant to potential errors in the reporting process overall. Don’t just look at your negative items – always look at your credit report as a whole to attain the best results.

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Aug 25, 2007

How long do negative items remain on my credit report?

Most negative items remain on your credit report for 7 years from the date of first delinquency, but there are some exceptions.

Delinquencies (30 – 180 days late) remain for 7 years from the date of the initial missed payment.

Collection accounts remain on your credit report for 7 years from the date of the initial missed payment that led to the collection (the original delinquency date). When a collection account is paid in full, it will be marked “paid collection” on the credit report.

Charged-off accounts remain for 7 years from the date of the initial missed payment that led to the charge off (the original delinquency date), even if payments are later made on the charged-off account.

Closed accounts are accounts that are no longer available for further use. Closed accounts may or may not have a zero balance. Closed accounts with delinquencies remain 7 years from the date they are reported closed, whether closed by the creditor or by the consumer. Positive closed accounts remain at least 10 years.

Lost credit card – If there are no delinquencies, credit cards that are reported lost will continue to be listed for 2 years from the date the card is reported lost. Delinquent payments that occurred before the card was lost are reported for seven years.

Bankruptcy – Chapters 7, 11, and 12 remain for 10 years from the filing date. Chapter 13 remains 7 years from the filing date. Accounts included in bankruptcy remain 7 years from the date they were reported as included in the bankruptcy.

Judgments (child support, civil & small claims) remain on your report for 7 years from the date the judgment is filed.

Tax Liens – (city, county, state, and federal) Unpaid tax liens remain 15 years from the filing date. Paid tax liens remain 7 years from the paid date of the lien.

Inquiries remain on your credit report for 2 years, with those in the last 6 months usually given the most consideration.

Positive Accounts remain indefinitely and paid positive accounts remain 10 years.

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May 13, 2007

Should I Close Old Accounts?

Closing old and unused credit accounts on your credit reports can help you avoid unnecessary fees and guard against identity theft. It can also cause your credit score to drop if you are not careful. Here are a few do’s and don’ts for closing those dormant accounts:

DO…

• Consider closing unused and idle accounts. These accounts could be charging you unnecessary fees and are often targets for identity thieves. Close the accounts with annual fees or the highest interest rates first.

• Check your credit report online to see the status of your accounts. Look for late payments, high balances and signs of identity theft. As a bonus, checking your credit report can save you some research time by providing you with contact information for each of your creditors.

• Be aware that you can cancel accounts that have an active balance. You can ask your creditor to close the account to new charges and continue paying down the balance each month. This may be a good way for heavy credit users to prevent new spending while they are reducing their balances but watch out for hidden fees.

• Keep four to six credit accounts open. This will keep your credit score and debt balances healthy. Signs of active and responsible credit use are viewed positively by creditors.

• Designate one card for regular use and try to pay the balance in-full each month. Reserve the other cards for emergencies only so that you are not tempted to overspend.

DON’T…

• Don’t close the oldest account on your credit report. This could cause your credit history to appear shorter and could harm your credit score.

• Don’t just throw away old cards and expect your accounts to close automatically. The safest way to close an account is to send a certified letter to the customer service department of the credit company. You should receive an account closing confirmation letter in 10 days.

• You shouldn’t be pressured to cancel several accounts all at once. Gradually paying down and closing accounts may be the best plan if you are unsure about the impact on your credit score or the amount of debt you need to carry. If you want to cancel numerous credit accounts, spacing the closures over time will reduce the chance of attracting negative suspicion from potential creditors.

• Avoid over-consolidating balances onto one card. If your credit balances rise to above 35% of your available limits, you may see a drop in your credit score.

• Don’t forget to check your credit report for updates and errors after you close your credit accounts. Wait 30-60 days for the creditor to report the closed account and the credit reporting agencies to update your records. While the accounts and their payment histories will stay on your report for 7 or more years, they should be marked as “closed.”

Posted in close accounts, credit, credit report, identity theft | No Comments »



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